APC specs and construction

U.S. Imperial Metric
LOA – length overall 32’ 9.75
LOD – length on deck 24’ 7.3
LWL – length waterline 20’ 6.1
Beam 9’0” 2.74
Draft 4’0” 1.22
Displacement Aprox. 8,900  pounds  4,037
Ballast 3,200 pounds 1,451
Mast Height 32’ 9.25
Mast height above water 37’ 11.3
Interior Head Room 6’3” 1.9
Wetted Surface Area 173 ft2 52.7 m2
Freeboard Aft 3’4” 1.02
Freeboard Least 2’4” .71
Freeboard Forward 4’5” 1.35
Deck width 18” 45.7 cm
Gaff Rig Sail Area 460’ ft 2 140.2 m2
Marconi Rig Sail Area 410’ ft 2 125 m 2

 

1X19 Standing Rigging ¼ in 6.35mm
Original mast Kenyon 4365 Cruising  3.75 lbs/ per foot ( bare pole)

from Frank Parish –

“So, just in case you didn’t know…

I rented a place with a very flat concrete floor.

Placed enough ¾” plywood to lay down her lines, tacking them together so they would not drift.

I purchased some  ¾” shelving from a local lumber supplier.

Then, using my drawings from which I had extracted “off sets” I laid down her lines using a carpenter’s marker.

When finished I took shapes of the frames from this full sized drawing.

The frames were 12” apart. Then I stood them up to vertical and braced them to the plywood floor.

When all were secured to each other I got Richard Porter (of precision yachts)  to help me cover the frames with a product called something like “fabmatt” but I am not sure.  I tried to look it up but can’t locate the reference.  I only made the prototype plug from it so it is a kind of special product; a woven bi-axial material ( so as to do compound curves) with pre-formed glass rod about ¼” dia. Running longitudinally through the material about 4 inches apart. This allowed for a smooth fit and fair surface from frame to frame.

About 12” wide and sold in rolls of about 25’ long.  This was 40 years ago so it may not even be in existence any more but there is so much new stuff out I’m sure anyone could come up with a satisfactory replacement.

We stapled the material onto the frames.  Afterward we wetted it out with resin and did a lay-up of mat and roving followed up with gel coat ( if I had planned to use this for a plug only I would have used regular paint and body putty for easy fairing but this was going to be my boat with no copies and no mold so we did it the hard way)  and lots of sanding and fairing.

Nowadays I would use epoxy for lots of reasons.

Then 3 coats of wax and lay up the mold on that surface.

Brace the mold with steel conduit, roll it over and pull it out.

I have left out the details of a split mold, of course.”

 

Cabin Top Structure – From the Designer Frank Parish

“During my experiences in maintenance of sailboats one of the most expensive and important problems was and continues to be soft cabin top and deck surfaces due to water incursion.  Most tops are cored with some material or other to stiffen the spans.  After much thought and some experimentation here was my resulting specification.

We used a mold for the entire deck and cabin top.  The top was cored with ½” or ¾”  marine plywood.

The wood sheets were cut into 6” squares and the sawed edges knocked off with a sander.  After gel coating the mold we laid in ½ oz. mat, then 1oz. mat and roving. Then we made up a slurry of resin and filler, using calcium and  mirco-baloons-  and poured into the dish shaped cabin top to a thickness of about ½”.   We then placed the tiles of plywood by hand into the soft slurry of resin so that it squeezed up between the tiles and then screeded off the surface with a trowel, adding slurry wherever necessary and leaving as smooth a surface as possible. We let it kick out real slow.  This yielded an extremely stiff deck cored with tiles instead of sheet of core so that if any point got exposed to water through improper bedding or accident the leakage would only penetrate that particular tile and could not move from tile to tile to make an entire deck or large portion soft.”